Sounds of Village Life

My village has a kind of rhythm and sound that has begun to sound and feel like home. It is made up of cowbells, distant women singing, children shouting and crying, dogs barking, sheep bleating, metal pots clanking and sometimes an unusual birdsong. It might be because my village is on a steep hillside facing a mountain, but all the noises echo off the mountains and blur into a type of music. It’s always changing and makes the village feel alive. At dusk when everything is settling down it seems beautiful and peaceful. About half an hour after dark all the noises stop except for some insects. It is an eerie quiet and makes me miss the village sounds until half an hour before dawn when it all starts back up again, usually children right outside my door shouting my name, then I wish I could turn it back off.

What Makes America Great: education and ice

After living in Lesotho for a couple months I have come to believe that the real difference between developed and developing countries is education. Solely based on the fact that we’ve had American educations, my fellow volunteers and I, after a few weeks of training by Peace Corps, are qualified to teach and lead workshops on business, nutrition, lifeskills, HIV/AIDS, sustainable farming, etc. and serve as mentors and counselors in Lesotho. All we need is some books. Not only do they lack resources, such as good textbooks here, there is also a lack of people who know how to use them as resources. While most of the teachers at my schools are working hard to educate the students, there is just a different attitude towards the education system. Most classes are merely copying things from the board, memorizing without understanding. And teachers often don’t come to class at all, and there are no substitutes. Students either study on their own or go home; it seems to be a weekly occurrence. One day last week only 2 of the 7 teachers where there. Beating students is a normal, everyday occurrence here. Besides being harmful for the students physically and mentally, it creates a horrible learning environment. There are several teachers that seem interested in learning alternatives classroom management techniques, which I’m really excited about, I’m going to lead a workshop on it soon. I’ve started teaching the teachers about lifeskills and HIV/AIDS. Its alarming the misconceptions that even some of the educated people here have about AIDS. Many thought that you couldn’t get AIDS id you were white, or that it is a problem in Lesotho but not in their village.

Education is a way out of poverty. But it’s nearly impossible to learn what you’re not taught. I believe that America has one of the best education systems in the world. Just imagine what these kids could do and would become if they received our educations. The education system is what makes America great. And the abundance of cold drinks. It’s become summer here and it is hot. I’ve started making cool tea, since there is no ice for ice tea. I think America might use more ice than any other country in the world. It might just be frozen water, but it is so good. Warm lemonade just isn’t the same.

Tom

A couple of weeks ago a Peace Corps volunteer was shot and killed in Lesotho. He and another volunteer were walking back to the Peace Corps training center from a close-of-service party at a hotel a few blocks away. They were mugged at gun point and Tom got shot. He died before he reached the hospital. While incidents like this happen in large cities around the world, it is made more tragic by the fact that Tom was a volunteer here to help the country. And Tom was one of the best of us. Few have become so loved and integrated into their communities here. The memorial service held for him here in Lesotho made it evident how loved and important he was to the Peace Corps volunteers and staff. The memorial service was very moving and healing. His friends and those close to him gave speeches and told many stories of Tom's remarkable achievements and some of his more mischievous adventures. It gave those of us that had arrived to Lesotho recently and did not know him well a vivid impression of the man he was and the man, the doctor, husband and father he should have been able to become. The intense emotion shown by those who had been close to him was proof to how fiercely loved he had been and how deeply and painfully he is being missed. His closest friends are home receiving counseling and being with family.

In Peace Corps you're thrown into a new world, where the language, customs and daily way of life are so different from what you've known. You cling to other volunteers. They become your support, your bit of home and sometimes your sanity. We really do become a family. The cruelly pointless and sudden manner of Tom's death blew a hole in our Peace Corps family that I doubt will ever fully heal. We are slowly and painfully returning to our sites and jobs, deemed safe by Peace Corps Washington. Hopefully carrying on helping Lesotho as tom would have. Our thoughts and prayers go out to his family and loved ones back home.

A family full of Gifts

I've been in Lesotho for ninety days! At first moving to village after a pampered week at the lodge was tough. But adjusting to a new way of life I guess is never easy. I'm happy to be back in a village again, and couldn't have a more beautiful site. But no one in my village speaks english! I'm able to get across all my needs, but I need to learn a lot more Sesotho before I can have a meaningful conversation with any of my neighbors. I thought I had learned a lot of Sesotho in the two weeks that I've been here, but yesterday I realized I'm just getting more fluent in hand gestures.

I absolutely love my host mom, she's very understanding and helpful, and always smiling. She makes me smile even when I have no idea what she's saying. I think she's going to be one of my best friends out here. I like my host brother and sister too, but they don't understand personal space. In Lesotho mothers get renamed after their oldest son or sometimes daughter. So my host mom's name is 'me mampho, my host brother's name is Impho and mine is Limpho. All diffrerent variations on the word gift, we are a family full of gifts. My host sister's name is Matsiliso, and I have no idea what that means.

I'm slowling adapting to village life and its slow pace. I spent an entire day watchign a roof get rebuilt with some bo-'me. It was really interesting. Their traditional houses are so much better insulated and sustainable than the modern concrete ones, I realy hope they don't lose hat knowledge and tradition. I alos spent one day walkign to the shop and back and then mending some clothes. I've already started to dress like a Mosotho, flannel shirts with skirts. My host mom told me it looks very nice, I think I'll bring it back to the states. They often wear blankets and towels over pants, instead of skirts, and are always tryign to get me to put on my towel, but I haven't gone that far yet. I've also been having fun building things for my little hut, and making it feel like home.

I'm excited for next week when I actually start working! I've never been very good at not havign anything to do. Next week I start working at three of the closest schools, two are still an hours walk away. I'll be teaching lifeskills four times a week, leading a teachers workshope once a week (so they'll be able to teach lifeskills themselves once I've left) and an environment club twice a week. The club is supposed to teach environmental conservation and sustainable farming, its also so I can manage the tree and garden projects sponsored by the lodge at the schools. I hope to lead a monthly workshop for the lodge employees and their families also. I'll be doing consulting and workshops in my village too, but I need a translator to help me talk with the village chief before I can set that up. I'm excited to be busy, and hopefully productive.

I've been able to visit the closest volunteer about once a week (and speak english!) which has been amazing. Peace Corps purposefully places volunteers close to eachother for support, and I got really lucky with the married couple I'm close to. I can only come to the lodge every 14 days and have internet access, ad that is a little less than how long it takes to get mail here. I now have a PO Box (the address is posted on facebook), so pelase write me letters! They're so precious out here. I want to end with a happy picture - how I spend most mornings, sitting on my family's stoop reading in the sun and looking out at the mountains covered in peach blossoms (hopefully my brother won't come and sit right next to me, watching me read and ruining my happy little picture).